An Outdoor View: Bonefishing, Part 6

Author’s note: This column is the sixth in a series about fishing at Christmas Island in 1987. — LP

Feb. 26 — In the wee hours of the night, I awake with a something-is-wrong feeling. I turn on a lamp and find one of the island’s ubiquitous land crabs in bed with me. I put it outside, check to see if it had friends, and go back to bed.

It’s still dark outside when Joe wakes us up at 5 a.m. We meet the other guys in the dining room and eat breakfast.

ADVERTISEMENT
0 seconds of 0 secondsVolume 0%
Press shift question mark to access a list of keyboard shortcuts
00:00
00:00
00:00
 

The five of us have our own guide and pickup today. It will be our first full day on the flats.

Before we left Alaska, the winter sun had been hanging low in the sky all day. Now, when we’re so close to the equator, the sun hammers us from directly overhead. Even with a high overcast screening it, the sun burns every part that’s exposed.

We’d been warned again and again to use sun block, and to cover everything possible. We slathered on so much sunblock, we were leaving oil slicks in our wakes. We wear gloves, long pants and long-sleeved shirts. To protect my temples, I wear a white cloth under my cap and draped down the sides of my face, earning me the title, “Les of Arabia.”

The flats are so vast, each of us has his own large area to fish. We’re often out of sight of one another. The constant trade wind and the birds make the only sounds.

Christmas Island hosts 35 species of birds. Like us, a few of these are from Alaska. One I recognize is the Pacific Golden Plover, which breeds in Alaska. The great frigatebirds — they’re about 3 feet long and have a 7-foot wingspan — perch in low bushes and seem to be quietly watching. They seldom flush from their perches, even when approached for a close-up photo.

On this second day on the island, we have an excellent morning of fishing. At times, bonefish come so near, it’s impossible to cast to them. We all catch fish.

About the guides here, guiding is a little different on this remote, Pacific island where fishing for sport is a fairly recent development. In Florida, I’m told, the bonefishing guides rig your tackle, pole you across the flats, point out the fish, and curse when you miss one. Here, the guides will sometimes point out a fish, and they laugh when you miss one. Some will take you to the flats, then go off on a walk by themselves.

However, Florida guides no doubt make more than the pitiful $10 per day that our guides are receiving. What’s more, tipping isn’t allowed on Christmas Island, so guides have little incentive to do much. I’m sure this situation will soon change.

To their credit, the guides here are polite and eager to please. One of them is especially eager. At Happy Hour tonight, we were telling lies about how many bones we’d caught today, when a guide came over to our table, flashed us a big smile, introduced himself and held out his hand. While he was shaking our hands, he reached around and gave each of our butts a little pat.

The plan for our group tomorrow is to have a “punt,” so we’ll be able to fish a different part of the lagoon. Two local Natives will accompany us, one as guide, one as captain. The punts are flat-bottomed, outboard-powered, wooden boats, about 20 feet long, and look as if they were designed on the back of an envelope at a lumberyard. They sport a wooden canopy, which keeps the sun off, and serves as an upper deck.

These punts may not look like much, but they’ll allow us to fish outside the lagoon. I go to bed excited about the prospects of casting plugs and catching big trevally.

Les Palmer can be reached at les.palmer@rocketmail.com.

More in Life

"Octopus" is an acrylic painting by new co-op member Heather Mann on display at Ptarmigan Arts in Homer, Alaska. Photo provided by Ptarmigan Arts
July First Friday in Homer

Homer’s galleries and public art spaces celebrate with new and ongoing exhibits.

Frank Rowley and his youngest child, Raymond, stand in knee-deep snow in front of the protective fence around the main substation for Mountain View Light & Power in Anchorage in 1948 or ’49. This photo was taken a year or two before Rowley moved to Kenai to begin supplying electrical power to the central peninsula. (Photo courtesy of the Rowley Family)
Let there be light: The electrifying Frank Rowley — Part 2

In July 1946, the soft-spoken Rowley was involved in an incident that for several consecutive days made the front page of the Anchorage Daily Times.

This nostalgic sauce is so shockingly simple, you’ll never buy a bottle again. Photo by Tressa Dale/Peninsula Clarion
America’s favorite culinary representative

The original recipe for ranch dressing was invented and perfected in Alaska, out in the bush in 1949.

Graphics show the nine finalists in three age groups for the Soldotna “I Voted” sticker design contest. (Provided by City of Soldotna)
Soldotna announces finalists for ‘I Voted’ sticker contest

Public voting will be open until July 20 to determine the winners.

Homer’s Cosmic Creature Club performs at the 2024 Concert on the Lawn at Karen Hornaday Park. (Emilie Springer/Homer News file)
July events to provide entertainment and fun on lower Kenai Peninsula

Events include the Highland Games, Concert on the Lawn, local art camps and the Ninilchik Rodeo.

Nick Varney
Unhinged Alaska: Flashback dreams and the cold sweats

When summer arrives, every personage in the known cosmos suddenly seems to remember that they have kindred living in Alaska.

File
Minister’s Message: Freedom is not what you think

If freedom isn’t what we first think it is, what is it?

This is the Kenai Power complex. The long side of the plant faces the Frank Rowley home, seen here at the right side of the photograph. (Photo courtesy of the Rowley Family)
Let there be light: The electrifying Frank Rowley — Part 1

Frank Rowley made one of the most important steps toward modernization in the history of Kenai.

”Thread of Light” is an acrylic painting done this year by Dan Coe on display through June at the Art Shop Gallery in Homer, Alaska. Photo by Christina Whiting
Fine art in invented spaces

Anchor Point artist showcases his skills with exhibit of acrylic paintings.

A variety of peony blooms grow vibrantly on Pioneer Avenue on Thursday, July 25, 2024, in Homer, Alaska. (Delcenia Cosman/Homer News)
6th annual Peony Celebration begins July 1

The festival will run in Homer through Aug. 17.

This cake stacks colored crepes for a brilliant rainbow breakfast. (Photo by Tressa Dale/Peninsula Clarion)
Crepes of a different color

This rainbow cake celebrates Pride with layers of colored crepes.