A snout-to-tail history of the humble pig

A snout-to-tail history of the humble pig

Never have you felt such pain.

You were only walking through your kitchen, when you stubbed the Piggy That Had Roast Beef. Yowza, that made you dance. Brought tears to your eyes, too.

Pigs at the end of your feet. Huh. Ridiculous, but there isn’t a baby within a mile who won’t fall for that game and neither will you, once you read “Lesser Beasts” by Mark Essig.

Many millions of years ago, about 10 million years after dinos died, hooved mammals appeared on Earth. Among them were horses, cattle … and porcine-like creatures that walked on two digits, possessed a sensitive snout, and resembled humans in gut and heart. That creature ultimately became the pig we know.

While dogs were the first animals to be domesticated, pigs “domesticated themselves” about 11,000 years ago. By that, Essig means that pigs hung around humans long enough to know that food was plentiful, so they moved in with us on their own. Humans quickly realized that pigs were easy to keep; says Essig, “if it was biologically possible to raise pigs, people raised pigs.”

And that was the case on and off throughout history: pigs were handy and cheap, which was good for the poor but bad for a pig’s reputation. Politically, pigs sometimes “didn’t fit” and were ignored as food; other times, they were viewed as a stash of emergency vittles on the hoof. Pigs notoriously eat things that are taboo for us to eat, so they’ve been called unclean and disgusting. On the other hand, they’ve saved a lot of people’s bacon, in more ways than one.

Furthermore, calling a pig dirty, as Essig points out, is hogwash. Pigs are intelligent and resourceful. They’ll seize almost any chance to adapt to their surroundings and can help clear land quickly (sometimes to the chagrin of landowners). They are more fecund than both cows and sheep. And, thanks to our willingness to ask where dinner once slept, little piggies that go to market may enjoy better lives before they join us at the table.

Forget cats online: what make you say “awwwwww” are videos of those impossibly cute piglets with their long eyelashes. Agree? Then “Lesser Beasts” is going to put you in hog heaven.

Starting with a herd of porkers and ending with pleas for compassion, author Mark Essig takes readers on a world tour that starts even before pigs became pigs. That science may be an odd way to start a history book, but it fits – especially since we then head styward to see how hogs have fell into and out of favor with humans. Along the way, Essig fattens up his narrative with little bits of asides; for instance, the first Arnold Ziffel on TV’s Green Acres?

You don’t want to know…

I thoroughly enjoyed this book. It’s got just enough lightheartedness in it to be fun, but it’s very informative, too. If you love pigs or you’ve joined the “cult” of bacon, “Lesser Beasts” is a book you’ll want to take all the way home.

* * *

And about that Piggy That Went to Market? If you’re concerned about where he’s spent most of his life, look for “Pig Tales: An Omnivore’s Quest for Sustainable Meat” by Barry Estabrook. It’s a look at corporate farming, pig husbandry, environmental issues, and what’s on your plate.

The Bookworm is Terri Schlichenmeyer. Email her at bookwormsez@gmail.com.

A snout-to-tail history of the humble pig

More in Life

File
Minister’s Message: Love born to endure

I spend time with people in the final chapters of their lives.… Continue reading

In his 1903 report to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Prof. Charles Christian Georgeson included this photograph of efforts to break recently cleared ground at Kenai’s agricultural experiment station. The man behind the bull was either station superintendent Hans P. Nielsen or his assistant Pontus H. Ross.
The experiment: Kenai becomes an agricultural test site — Part 4

AUTHOR’S NOTE: A presidential executive order in January 1899 had set aside… Continue reading

This recipe makes a boatload of soft and delicious cookies, perfect for sharing at Christmastime. Photo by Tressa Dale/Peninsula Clarion
Christmas cookies for a shared tradition

These cookies are so soft and delicious, it’s no wonder they’re part of a family Christmas tradition.

Daniel Craig (right), returning as Benoit Blanc, and Josh O'Connor are seen in this still from "Wake Up Dead Man: A Knives Out Mystery," released on Netflix on Dec. 12, 2025. (Promotional photo courtesy Netflix)
On the Screen: ‘Knives Out 3’ truly a film for our times

I often feel the need to watch a film twice. The first… Continue reading

Orange zest and extract bring this literary-inspired treat to life. Photo by Tressa Dale/Peninsula Clarion
Whimsy and magic

This literary-inspired treat is perfect for Christmastime festivities.

File
Minister’s Message: Traditions should be things that support us

Regardless of how you find yourself this season, know that you’re not alone.

Photo from the Alaska State Library historical collection
In Kenai, circa 1903, this trio was photographed on a well-used trail. Pictured are George S. Mearns, future Kenai postmaster; Kate R. Gompertz, Kenai resident; Hans P. Nielsen, superintendent of Kenai’s agricultural experiment station.
The experiment: Kenai becomes an agricultural test site — Part 3

AUTHOR’S NOTE: Presidential Executive Order #148, in January 1899, had set aside… Continue reading

Snow-covered trees and peaks are pictured from a frozen pond near the Herbert Glacier trail in Juneau<ins>, Alaska,</ins> on Thursday, Dec. 11<ins>, 2025</ins>. (Chloe Anderson/Peninsula Clarion)
Out of the Office: Breaking the winter cycle

There’s a learning curve to every new season and every new sport.

File
Minister’s Message: Good grief

Grief doesn’t take a holiday, but it can offer you something the holidays can’t.

This 1903 photograph of mostly Kenai residents shows (back, far left) Hans Peter Nielsen, first superintendent of Kenai’s agricultural experiment station. Nielsen began work at the station in 1899 and resigned at the end of the 1903 season. (Photo from the Alaska State Library historical collection)
The experiment: Kenai becomes an agricultural test site — Part 2

AUTHOR’S NOTE: Presidential Executive Order #148, in January 1899, had set aside… Continue reading

Served together on a bed of greens, these pickled eggs and beets make a light but cheerful lunch. Photo by Tressa Dale/Peninsula Clarion
A wealth of eggs for good health

Pickled along with roasted beets and dill, these eggs have a cheerful hue and bright aroma.

File
Minister’s Message: Lifelong learning is a worthwhile goal

Lifelong learning. That’s a worthwhile goal. Schools have been in session for… Continue reading